Needles

Needles is Keizo Shimizu's label, one of the first brands under the Nepenthes umbrella. Shimizu built Nepenthes after years spent sourcing obscure American workwear and military pieces, and Needles grew out of that personal archive. It began in 1988 and looks at Americana, military and sportswear through a Japanese lens, with vintage cues and the odd psychedelic detour. Everything is made in Japan. The butterfly-embroidered tracksuit is the one most people know, made in anything from poly knit to velour. The butterfly nods to Steve McQueen's tattoo in Papillon. Also look for reconstructed flannels, western-leaning shirts, relaxed tailoring and wide-leg trousers borrowed from military fatigues. Rebuild by Needles, started in 2012, cuts up vintage garments into one-off hybrids.