Pure Blue Japan

Pure Blue Japan, or PBJ, was founded in 1997 by Kenichi Iwaya in Okayama, Japan, and it is best known for rough, slubby, neppy denim. The fabric is woven on vintage shuttle looms and dyed with natural indigo, and the texture is the whole point. The NP-019, for example, is a heavyweight 17oz jean in American cotton with a relaxed tapered fit. Elsewhere, a signature 14oz slub denim goes into the X005 and X013. PBJ dyes the yarn rather than the finished garment, and the shades run from light natural indigo to a very deep purple. The back pocket carries a small "shoai" emblem inspired by the indigo leaf. Jackets and shirts are made too. If you like to wear denim hard, these are worth a look.